At Lincoln Street, Sean Smajstrla shares his family's appreciation for fine food, wine, and music. He promises everyone who stops by the Tuscany-style wine bar "a night of nights." Photo by Phil Houseal
Details:
Lincoln Street (the wine bar) is located at 111 South Lincoln Street (the street). Phone 830-997-8463. Open seven days a week, with live music every Friday and Saturday. Hours are Sunday and Monday between "1ish and 10ish;" and Tuesday through Saturday from "11ish to 10ish or 12ish."
"I always say 'ish' because - when we can - we will stay open later and serve you," Smajstrla said. "But if we're 30 minutes late the next morning, give us a break. We're not about punching a time clock. We're more about soul and feel and art and love and passion. Wine should be celebrated, not regimented."
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Lincoln Street:
Wine as passion
by Phil Houseal
Nov 22, 2006
"Everything in life is wonderful in moderation."
The lesson a young Sean Smajstrla's learned at the family table has become the philosophy that drives Lincoln Street, Fredericksburg's original wine bar.
"Mom and dad never excluded us from anything," Smajstrla explained. "They said, 'If we go out and eat somewhere nice, you are going out with us, you're dressing up, you're going to learn your manners, and you will eat good food, not order off the kids menu. This is the way it's going to be."
Appreciation for the finer things was not just saved for "going out."
"I can remember having family dinners where we would sit down, have a nice meal, and drink a bottle of fine wine," Smajstrla recalled. "Wine was never a taboo. It was something to be celebrated and enjoyed."
With the goal of sharing that attitude, Sean's brother Todd opened Lincoln Street in 1994. The Smajstrlas were on to something: Lincoln Street has become the longest-running dedicated wine bar in Texas.
Meanwhile, Sean and his wife, Tula, had visited Italy, where they fell in love with Tuscany. When the couple assumed ownership of Lincoln Street in 2002, they took it from "sort of a French, shabby chic," to more of a rough, Tuscan ambience.
Smajstrla completely remodeled inside and out. He increased outdoor seating, and added a wisteria-shaded lanai and fireplace so oenophiles could enjoy their wine - and music - year round.
"I've always wanted to have live music," he said. "We try to do Texas artists, but not twangy Texas. This is not a rock bar, and not a country bar. When you are drinking wine, you don't want someone blowing you away with a rock guitar ballad. I like artists that can play to the crowd, who know when to come on strong and when to back off."
As a musician who has played in a few bars himself, Smajstrla is aware of the differences between a "beer" crowd and a "wine" crowd.
"You make a choice," he noted. "You can choose pool halls, smoke and volume. Or, you can choose conversation, relaxation and enjoyment. One is 'hyped up - let's party;' one is 'let's just enjoy each other's company.' Music should accent your night, not control your night."
Wine and cheese will also accent a trip to Lincoln Street. Try the bistro-style food - imported cheeses, prosciutto, pestos, pates, and fruit - served on an old wooden tray for that touch of Tuscany.
Lincoln Street can uncork 400-500 different wines, and you can try anything by the glass.
"We are the only place that does that," Smajstrla said. "You can have a $5 glass of wine, or a $500 glass of wine."
Over a glass, Smajstrla enjoys swatting down a few "wine bar" myths.
Too smoky?
"We haven't had smoking inside for two years. We do allow and encourage smoking outside on the patio."
Too expensive?
"Yes, wine is normally expensive. But at Lincoln Street you can have a $5 glass or a $25 bottle of wine. If you want to have a night of nights, we can do that, too."
Too snobby?
"It's about you, it's not about us. If you want to get into a geek conversation about wine, we can do that. But we don't want anybody to feel embarrassed because they can't pronounce something."
"If you are tired of everything else and want to change, give yourself a chance," he said. "Don't think of a wine bar as a stuffed shirt, geeky place. Come in, sit on the couch, and talk to us. If you don't like it, you can leave. But at least walk in the front door and talk to us. Once you come in here, I guarantee you are going to be hooked."
"You are going to have the greatest night of your life."
XXX